Ya Es Verano

The heat has arrived in Sevilla and the days are very long. Last night the sun set around 9:30. Sevillanos don’t sup until 10 or later, so the timing feels just right. The siesta is a necessity during the summer in southern Spain. In the street, the quietest time of day is from 3-5 because everyone is resting in their homes – made with high ceilings, marble floors and central courtyards – all of which aid in cooling the building. When you walk past the open door of a building with any interior courtyard, you pass through a refreshing whoosh of cool air.

Since I’m a Haus Frau, but I don’t want to run errands in the afternoon, I went out this morning. After getting my usual 2nd breakfast: un media tostada con tomate y aceite y un manchado, at Bar Rodrigo, I headed for the closest bike station. On my way, I gave a sweet nun directions to Jesus del Gran Poder, a church in our neighborhood. Giving directions to little old Spanish ladies is always a pleasure.

I have a bike card from a friend of ours who spent time in the archive here. He entrusted his bike card to me once he left Sevilla. With a card, I can take a bike from any station in the city and deposit it in any other station, and the first 30 minutes are free. I’ve taken to riding a bike to the bus station, or up the river towards the cathedral, or to the Triana bridge when I go to the Triana market.

This morning, I went to the Triana market for coquinas, tiny clams that are popular in these parts. I picked one of the many fresh seafood stalls and waited in line. The seafood at the market is pretty impressive; there are huge, dense tuna fillets, tiny crabs, slowly wiggling in the netting of a bag, milky white squid whose tentacles hang over the counters and small prickly conch shells.

When my turn came, I told the fishmonger that I wanted coquinas para dos personas. While he weighed and bagged my order, an older man walked up, and began chatting jovially with him. The old man nonchalantly selected one of the tiny coquinas from the counter in front of me, picked it up, pried it open and ate the clam inside. He contentedly announced, “Those coquinas are quite delicious and fresh!” I smiled to myself and gave the fishmonger 3 euros.


Ingredients: coquinas, olive oil, salt, white wine, parsley and an obscene amount of garlic