Calle Mendoza Rios
Strolling home after some early evening shopping on Tetuan . . .
I turn onto the small pedestrian way, Calle San Eloy, to avoid the crowded sidewalk along Alfonso XII. It’s about 9 p.m., and most stores are just closing on San Eloy. Two chattering women come out of a tiny shoe store and pull down the metal grate – painted pink – in front of the glass door. A college-age foursome (3 girls, 1 guy) walks towards me and I just catch the end of the guy’s question; he’s Spanish. One of the girls with him, wearing a short stylish dress, answers deliberately with a grating American accent, “Tengo un examen mañana.” I roll my eyes.
The two short older ladies to my right are supporting each other as they walk; the shorter one uses a cane. Across the way, an old friend spots them and immediately begins yelling and smiling. Walking over to her friends, she proclaims, “¡Oy-yoy-yoy! ¡Que guapa!” As I turn down Calle Monsalves, I see little clusters of neighbors and friends talking and nibbling tapas at a bar. The Plaza del Museo has its usual unhurried activity as I pass through. Someone’s dog is sniffing along the shrubbery. Throughout the plaza, periwinkle-colored jacaranda blossoms lie on the ground.
I walk two blocks up Alfonso XII to Calle Redes – I haven’t turned down this pretty street in a while. The sunlight down the street is dusky; a warm breeze is coming from somewhere – the river? Just as I pass the large doorway into an interior courtyard, I hear a door inside close and a handful of voices begin to sing “Cumpleaños Feliz” to the tune of “Happy Birthday.” The pitch is shaky, but I can hear big smiles in their voices.
Looking into the open door of our local bar, Abacería Baños, I see that Pedro is not working tonight. I smile at the guy behind the bar – he was really nice the last time we were there. I hear a saxophonist practicing scales at the music conservatory across the street. The practice room window must be open. When I’m just half a block from our apartment, I see a cute girl my age hurrying down Baños. I quickly recognize her as one of my intercambio partners from months ago and I remember that she lives in my neighborhood. When we met for our intercambio, she taught me so much about Semana Santa and Feria traditions.
And now I’m home – it’s 9:30 and still light.
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